July 18-22, 2018

TL;DR: From the expansive panoramas we expected to the craft breweries we didn’t know existed, Montana is a majestic place. Also, they love meat, which is always a good sign.

The sights

Missoula

Missoula is a funky little college town that’s easy to walk and bike around, with an interesting focus on peace. It was 95 degrees when we got there. We were not prepared.

Lewis & Clark Brewery, Helena

Spent quite a bit of time here. Loved pretty much every beer, and even got an amazing green growler for funsies.

Butte

Butte has a huge copper mine that’s still visible from basically all parts of the city. Quiet on the streets except for tons of bars and cool old metal banks.

Western Meat Block, Butte

If you’re a carnivore, this is a must visit. We got a huge steak (horseradish garlic marinade for the win), eight bacon-cheddar hot dogs for when Sara and Doug visit, bourbon bacon bits (!), beef jerky, burgers, and chicken for $44. And we only stopped there because our fridge is too small for more.

Butte Brewing Company

Lovely place to work while enjoying a cold one. Or three.

Silver Dollar Saloon

Paula the bartender has been working here for 20 years and said she’d seen some stuff, including two “big Chicago blues singers.” We had no idea who they were. But Paula was a gem.

Bozeman

Driving to Bozeman had a bit of Colorado feel: pretty in the valley with lots of mountains, creeks, and rivers. Driving through the town, we saw gorgeous older houses that reminded Jess of Bexley, Ohio.

Bozeman Co-op

Great place for dried mango and fresh produce.

Museum of the Rockies

This had a very interesting mix of guitars, dinosaurs, and space.

Spent a little too much time on the very in depth guitar exhibit, blew through the Bozeman/cars/native Americans exhibit, then lingered with the dinos—including a 9-foot rib bone.

Ennis and Earthquake Lake

Took the scenic route and stopped at Ennis to walk around. There’s a Silver Dollar saloon here, too. Earthquake Lake had a very eery drowned tree situation. Stopped at Cabin Creek campground to see if we could get water and the guy was really nice and let us fill up!

Details, details, details

Apparently you can kayak treadmill in Montana.

In Bozeman, we lit a “San Francisco” candle that Chloe gave us. Run now and get five for yourself. It’s amazing.

At Paul’s Pancake Parlor in Missoula, we had our first sourdough pancake. It was delicious. It was made with a starter that had been in the family for decades. Mainly amazing but also sort of gross.

Great Harvest has insanely incredible cinnamon rolls. (Thank you, Mary Lou!)

Layla had her first oil change. Everyone we called said it would be weeks before we could get in, but we got referred to Dr. Tim’s in Helena and they took very good care of her the next morning.

The area between Helena and Butte had a ton of trees and mountains, creeks, and rivers by the road. When you exit the mountains and enter the valley you see Butte in front of you and the old mine. Some (Brian) might say it’s “Butte-i-full.”

And then this happened…

Went to Duds ‘n’ Suds for Layla’s second car wash and thought we had clearance … but definitely gave the air conditioner a little (loud) nudge. Slowly backed out and drove away, completely embarrassed.

On one of our Walmart nights in Butte, we were fast asleep at 2 AM when Walmart’s sprinklers hit the side of Layla and scared us half to Missoula. Note to selves: Do not park on the perimeter.

Bri opened the fridge and the blueberries finally made their great escape.

Now we know

We tried to get an oil change in Missoula but Layla was too wide! Apparently most motorhomes’ mirrors fold in, but not our Layla.

A lot of drivers in Missoula don’t look where they’re going. It was shocking. Also terrifying.

BBQ in Missoula is not quite as advanced as BBQ in Texas (according to #BBQexpert Bri). Good name, though.

Instant pot artichokes need work. Pretty sure all artichokes are meant to be grilled.

Road food

An Italian-American supper club with over 70 years of history, Lydia’s serves good meats with a constellation of side dishes from pickled beets to homemade ravioli.

Where we stayed

Night one: Walmart, Missoula

This was a busy one for RVs, but we found a spot eventually.

Night two: Casa de Mallette

Had the distinct pleasure of staying with some friends of friends, who treated us like family. First time out of Layla since we started. Very grateful to Gene and Mary Lou!

Night three and four: Walmart, Butte

This Walmart was ripe with motorcycles, street cleaners (felt like they were there 24/7), sprinklers, and very cheap sunscreen. Win some, lose some.

Night five: Walmart, Bozeman

Another lovely Walmart stay. Don’t get us wrong, we’re grateful for a free parking spot. But when trains go by non-stop and the street cleaners just keep cleaning, it makes you wonder.