Memphis

September 5-9, 2018

TL;DR: We really liked Memphis (it always helps to have a good spot for Layla from which to explore). We got to see a good friend from college, eat delicious barbecue, and reflect on some of our country’s most important, and tragic, history.

The sights

The Lorraine Motel

This surreal spot was a go-to in the 1960s for musicians, including Ray Charles, Aretha Franklin, and the Staples Singers. It’s also the site of the assassination of MLK, Jr. in 1968. It was converted into a museum not long after.

Outside, there’s a wreath dedicated to Dr. King in the exact spot where he was shot. A 1959 Dodge and 1968 Cadillac are frozen in time just below.

There are several interactive kiosks that tell the story of the civil rights movement, and the entire place is blanketed in a somber, respectful veil.

Stax Museum

The old recording studio was home to the Staples Singers, Louis Jordan, Ike & Tina Turner, and Carla Thomas, among many, many others.

Today, it’s home to tons of records, album covers, original outfits, recording equipment, and more.

Otis Redding cut Mr. Pitiful and Respect on this machine!

They even had Isaac Hayes’ gold-trimmed, fur-lined custom Cadillac El Dorado complete with a TV and built-in fridge. Hayes won the Oscar for Best Original Song for the theme from Shaft.

The Ducks

We rushed over to Peabody Hotel just minutes before the duck march, and could barely see there were so many people. Some fun facts:

When not parading, the ducks live in a $200,000 “Royal Duck Palace” on the hotel’s roof.
The ducks have appeared on The Tonight Show with Johnny Carson, Sesame Street, and the Oprah Winfrey Show.
The ducks are raised by a local farmer and friend of the hotel, and each team of ducks is only around for three months before they’re returned to the farm and are free to live as wild ducks.

#doitfortheducks

Beale Street

Running from the Mississippi River to East Street, Beale Street is a two-mile stretch lined with neon signs and filled to the brim with bars, music venues, and restaurants.

Some are good, some overhyped. At night, it closes down like Bourbon or 6th Streets, and the people rage.

There are also carriages. Seems like the right move is to go with lights…

Most of the venues have a small cover charge, or you can buy a wristband for the whole street. Good music is easy to find.

We also went to a great little upstairs bar with a jukebox, called The Absinthe Room.

Blues City Cafe

Just off Beale street, this cafe is pretty big, with a good bar in the back. We got a nice spot just before it started pouring, and proceeded to drink quart beers for quite some time.

Details, details, details

The Welcome Center at Memphis is pretty great. It’s right next to the water and has several parking spots for RVs. There’s also free WiFi, so we were able to hang out and work a little, go for a run on the water, and use it as a home base for exploring Memphis.

Memphis was named after Memphis, Egypt, so it’s only natural that its Bass Pro Shop should have one of the largest pyramids in the world.

This pyramid also has a hotel, indoor swamp, 13-lane ocean-themed bowling alley, and an aquarium. Some believe it was empty for a decade due to a cursed crystal skull.

And then this happened

We had our leftover ribs from Central BBQ and were heading home when we came across a homeless man. He asked, “What is it?” and then proceeded to stick his hands inside and manhandle all of ‘em. Not sure if he was happy with what he found, but they were definitely his after that.

Somewhere along the bumpy roads of Missouri and Tennessee, one of the corner joints holding the shelving unit above the dinette snapped off.

Roadfood

“Smoke is our sauce” is the Central BBQ mantra, referring to a 24-hour meat marinade followed by slow-smoking over hickory and pecan.

Get ready for a kiss on the forehead from B.J. Chester-Tamayo when you arrive to Alcenia’s. Also: the most amazing fried green tomatoes

Where we stayed

Nights one and two: Cracker Barrel, West Memphis

Everything was fine until a very noisy, very bright garbage truck arrived at 3 AM on the first night and we thought it was going to back right into us.