Albuquerque and Santa Fe

May 26-June 11, 2021

TL;DR: Our good friends Megan and Franco came to visit from the Bay Area for a whirlwind ABQ and SF trip, and we packed in just about everything we could, from exploring all the neighborhoods to hitting up Meow Wolf to spa-ing in the mountains, sampling every margarita we could find, and eating all the chips and salsa in the southwest. Jess is still in love with Santa Fe and ready to move here tomorrow. The people, the culture, the food—it’s all just so wonderful!

The stats

Hikes: 4
Hiking miles: 9.03 (1,726 ft elevation gain)
Miles in Eric: 360
Miles in Layla: 137
Hot air balloons missed: 1
Turquoise pieces seen: 3,890,322
Petroglyphs awed at: 20,000+
Meals at The Shed: 2
Margaritas consumed: 104

The sights

Albuquerque

Our first stop in Albuquerque was Los Poblanos Ranch, and oh my gosh it was absolutely stunning. Not only was our meal incredible, but the grounds were just gorgeous. Designed in 1932, the farm is set among 25 acres of lavender fields and cottonwood trees in the Rio Grande River Valley, and practices sustainable methods for its gardens, which supply many of the ingredients for its menus. There’s even a Farm House store with shelf after shelf of beautiful items. I’m surprised we didn’t leave with the entire store!

Walked around Old Town Albuquerque, which is super charming, if a little quiet after Covid. Plenty of cute shops and galleries.

Sawmill Food Hall is a Ferry Building farmer’s market-type place with tons of restaurants, bars, stores, and a huge outdoor seating area which had live music while we were there; also got an excellent duo of pizzas from Hawt Pizza before we left for the night.

Just a minute away from the food hall was Spurline, the most well-curated store with everything from camera straps and candles to gorgeous clothes and lavender chocolates.

The privately owned Turquoise Museum showcases the collection of five generations, and is, in a word, exhaustive. Each panel of information is so detailed it’s almost mind-numbing. But we did see some really cool and interesting pieces, from turquoise horse necklaces to chandeliers, bolo ties, and everything in between.

The Nob Hill area seems to be up and coming, with tons of cute shops and restaurants, including the Tractor Brewing Company, which has a nice outdoor patio in the back. Another day we returned to the Farmacy for breakfast, which offers mimosas in beakers and an excellent green chile grit situation.

Stopped at Hotel Parq Central and sat on the rooftop bar, which, though extremely hot, was quite lovely. They have an excellent guacamole with elote.

One night we drove to dinner at El Pinto, which is a pretty famous New Mexican restaurant. Even though the food came out extremely quickly, it did not disappoint—especially the incredible ribs which were simmered in red chile for hours.

The Nuclear Museum was very well done, inside and out, from top to bottom. Not quite as intense information-wise as the Turquoise Museum, but ample information for sure, chronicling the entire journey of nuclear power from the beginning to nuclear energy. Even has a field of airplanes out back. Popped over to Bombs Away Brewing after, as it felt quite apropos, then got a few goodies at Panaderia, including more pizza.

The Petroglyph National Monument stretches 17 miles along a volcanic basalt escarpment that covers the city’s western horizon. One of the largest petroglyph sites in North America, it features over 20,000 drawings from Native Americans and Spanish settlers from 400-700 years ago.

Santa Fe

Even though we had gone once before, we knew we wanted to take our friends to The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, and it did not disappoint. We originally didn’t have reservations but there was a cancellation so we got in! Her life story and philosophy on living is just so refreshing and wonderful, and her love of Santa Fe and New Mexico is contagious. They also have a gorgeous museum store where Jess and Megan wanted all the things.

The patio at The Inn at the Anasazi is an excellent place for Gold Coin Margaritas and wonderful service.

Returned to Shake Foundation and were not disappointed. This time instead of a cinnamon milkshake, Megan and Franco got a coffee/chocolate combo that was to die for. The burgers and fries were excellent.

Took a long stroll down South Guadalupe Street and loved it. There’s an especially incredible vintage store, Double Take, that’s huge and has an excellent selection. Close by is Cowgirl BBQ, where we were surprised to be serenaded by a one-man band—Good Troy Edward. His suitcase drum situation is quite impressive.

One of the highlights was definitely Ten Thousand Waves, which was just amazing. The entire property is gorgeous, and we had the pleasure of enjoying the Kojiro suite, which was huge, with views of the valley, with a 180-degree dry sauna, very cold plunge, and hot tub. It even had its own bathroom with a heated toilet seat.

Then, to top it off, we went to the restaurant on site, Izanami, which just kicked it up a whole other level. Amazing service, incredible food, a tasting with nine different sakes. We even tried two different types of Wagyu beef: One was from Japan and super fatty, almost white, and tasted like butter. The other was from Nebraska, extremely lean, red and marbled, and so flavorful. Another highlight was the smoked pork ribs with sweet chile glaze.

Meow Wolf was certainly an experience. The interactive art exhibit, called House of Eternal Return, is a 20,000-square-foot immersive art installation. The exhibit is loosely based on the storyline of a fictional family who disappeared after experimenting with inter-dimensional travel. Lots of Stranger Things vibes for sure.

Walked down Canyon Road for gallery night, which was a little quieter than normal for sure, but saw some cool pieces.

Hiked Sun Mountain, which is about 750 feet up over about .8 miles, but worth it for the views. Felt very local with lots of cool elderly ladies walking with their doggos. Pretty good hangover buster.

Shopped around the Plaza, including at Chocolate + Cashmere, which has great cashmere pieces and candles, and Grace, where Jess got some sunglasses. Looked in a lot of different stores and marveled at all the different turquoise.

After we dropped Megan and Franco off at the airport (sad), we went to Sandia Crest, which was so stunning! We drove up, though we also saw a lot of great-looking hikes. Went on a little nature loop that was very informative.

The drive to Ghost Ranch treated us to lots of red rocks and panoramic views. Very easy to see why Georgia was so very taken with it. Though her home is not open to the public, they have an entire compound there, with hikes and movie tours (apparently it’s been quite a few), a gift shop, and even summer camps.

We decided to go on the Chimney Rock trail, which really got Jess (altitude change? General tiredness?), but was worth it for the views of Ghost Ranch and the valley. Almost looked like it was painted in places. Tons of swallows at the top who were dive-bombing off the cliff at 30-40 MPH. Anywhere along the trail would be cool to sit and stay a while and just watch the light change.

Drove to Rancho de Chimayo for a post-hike feast and were not disappointed. A little less intimate than, say, The Shed, but really good and authentic New Mexican food.

Popped into Madrid for a nice lunch at The Hollar (see Roadfood), but otherwise didn’t spend too much time there. Rather quirky little spot with lots of little shops and galleries, and was packed when we drove through on the weekend. A little less so on a Tuesday.

Drove through Frijoles Canyon to see Bandelier National Monument, which was really well-maintained. There are 200-300 homes built into the mountains, which are pummice-y and therefore easy to carve. Couple even had ladders so it was interactive which was fun.

Veered off the main road for about seven miles to try and find the Cochiti Mesa, which we think we were actually just driving on top of… There had obviously been a huge fire, with burnt trees everywhere and aspens growing in the remains.

Drove by the Valles Caldera, which is an 11-mile long crater where a volcano exploded eons ago. Now it’s a big meadow and there’s a wildlife reserve, which we’d like to return to one day.

Passed through Jemez Springs which seems like a smaller/less populated Madrid, but apparently has hot springs.

Our final day in Santa Fe, we hit up Vinaigrette for a fresh salad and inventive mimosas, then had some chile beers at Chile Line Brewery, and ended the day at Cafe Pasquale, which had just opened the day before after the pandemic and was just as good as ever.

Details, details, details

We were so excited to return to The Shed in Santa Fe after visiting with Jess’s cousin for her wedding two years ago, but when we got there, they were full for the night (even though they had just opened… apparently their waitlist opens when they open for lunch service at 11 and everyone puts their name on the list for dinner then!), but we got very lucky as a four-top was a no-show. Thank goodness because it really is just so good.

As you may or may not know, we’re huge fans of John Wick. But the third one was just… not great.

Meow Wolf also has a bar with cotton candy cocktails that are pretty horrible but fun to look at it. Hadn’t had cotton candy in years.

Even though Meow Wolf definitely had good security measures and tons of sanitation stations, it was a little too crowded for our liking, and LOTS of kids running around. Would prefer a 21+ happy hour situation or something.

Drove through the Tesuque neighborhood on our way back from Ghost Ranch, which had a lot of beautiful houses and was right next to the Santa Fe opera (which was closed while we were there).

At the top of Sandia Crest, we saw the “steel forest” of radio towers, which apparently began in 1945 with a state police transmitter and now provides clear radio, TV, and other signals in New Mexico and beyond.

And then this happened…

We took Eric for his first drive-through car wash before Megan and Franco got here and as we pulled out something felt off. The machine had snagged on the tire pressure gauges and shredded both of our right tires. ? Somehow, a Discount Tire was .5 miles away and they were kind enough to stay late and put new tires on Eric. The car wash place said it did not cover the damage, which is VERY frustrating. So. Don’t go to Quick Shine?

We woke up early on our last day in Albuquerque to go on a hot air balloon ride but the winds were not working in our favor. This did mean we were first in line at a popular breakfast spot, so we’ll take it.

Remember packing peanuts? They’re still around and they’re still incredibly irritating.

But, they’re also worth it because we got a new telephoto lens. Watch out birds!

While we were at Chile Line Brewery, a very chic elderly man asked Jess if she knew who Melissa Rivers was, because she looked just like her. Apparently it’s Joan Rivers’s granddaughter. He then said, “She’s a bitch, though, and you’re probably not a bitch, right?”

We watched Unhinged with Russel Crowe and it was a bit much. Do not recommend.

Now we know

Got a low-down on how easy it is to fake turquoise at the Turquoise Museum, so make sure you get a certificate if you’re buying an expensive piece!

New Mexico still has a rule where you can’t sit at the bar, so most bars that were once hoppin’ are now totally reorganized around tables and have a very different feel.

You can really only open three ketchup packets at a time.

If you get to The Shed in Santa Fe at about 10:40 a.m., even on a Saturday, you’re good for a clutch outdoor spot. You can also put your name in for dinner later.

When we were at the Bandelier National Monument, we saw raised-earth crop circles, which they did to keep them warm, and learned that they had a triple rotation of corns, beans and squash AKA the “Three sisters.”

The bark of grown Ponderosa pine trees smells like vanilla!

Apparently Aspens thrive after there’s a fire, so we’ve seen a lot of burnt forests with these adorable baby Aspens popping up.

Pupusas are basically quesadillas with corn tortillas and we had the most incredible ones at Cafe Pasquale.

Apparently Meow Wolf was built in part due to a generous pledge by author George R.R. Martin to help renovate the space (he moved to Santa Fe in 1979).

Things are starting to get very busy since it’s summer. We’ll likely be reluctantly fighting crowds until August/early September.

Roadfood

The line at Albuquerque’s Grove Cafe is worth it for thin, chewy pancakes with crème fraîche and fresh sourdough with prosciutto, parmesan, and asparagus.

Santa Fe’s Rowley Farmhouse Ales specializes in niche beer and locally-focused plates, like the comforting green chile tuna melt with aged white cheddar.

Thick, fried green tomatoes with lavender béchamel, a warm goat cheese salad, and chile-accented turkey melt are casual but refined at Madrid’s Hollar.

Where we stayed

Nights one through five: Spot 103, American RV Park, Albuquerque, New Mexico

Nights six through 17: Spot 7, Los Suenos RV Park, Santa Fe, New Mexico

Great home base close to downtown and complete with little cabins so that Megan and Franco could stay really close. Got to watch a few cool lightning storms from their little patio.