Jackson, Mississippi

February 21-22, 2020

TL;DR: This was our first stop back on the road after more than a year living in Pensacola, Florida! It was short but sweet. We were lucky enough to stay with our dear friends Erica and Stu (and Harris the cat), and got a very musical taste of the city.

The sights

Jackson

Jackson reminded us a little bit of St. Louis because of the population loss and areas with abandoned buildings. The rather awful roads were reminiscent of Memphis. Lots of cool buildings, though, and it does seem like they’re making an attempt to reinvest in the city. For more on that, and a peek into Erica’s everyday life, visit Mississippi Today—where, along with other journalists, she’s inspiring locals to take an active interest in the state and engage in the community!

Duling Hall

This converted elementary school is a really cool music venue. Stage was probably a little lower than it could have been, but it was intimate and really fun. We were there to watch Shovels and Rope, a husband/wife duo who bring their kids on the road with them (!!). They were incredible in spite of lots of people talking loudly (not bitter at all).

F Jones Corner

This funky spot is usually home to blues music, but the night we went they had sort of a blues/hip-hop vibe. Has a few couches, small bar, and dance area. Plus a little kitchen window that sells excellent buffalo wings, pickle chips, and a sausage breakfast sandwich with a side of syrup. Red Jello shots served in paper cups were a big (strong) hit.

Aplos

This is where our friend Stu is the head chef! We went there twice and Jess definitely should have written about it for Roadfood. Simple but delicious Greek food with different twists. We especially loved the confit chicken wings with Greek seasoning and this awesome whipped feta/yogurt dip. Also have great slushie drinks, particularly the Porch Swing, which was Jess’ favorite: Cathead honeysuckle vodka and lemonade. Had pizza when we went back the second time, which was a great hangover elixir.

Lafleur’s Bluff State Park

We went to this park with the intention of walking along the Purple Trail, which winds along the Pearl River. But we just could not find the Purple Trail for the life us. We ended up having to pay because apparently people who just go for the trails often ended up sneaking into the museum anyway.

When we went to find the trail, most routes were closed because of the recent flood (the biggest since 1979). It had mellowed out since last week, but The Purple Trail was closed. We were able to get pretty close to the water, which was pretty, but eerie.

One stick was bobbing up and down mysteriously and we thought it might be an upside-down sign caught on something. Lots of birds—Erica said one was a cooper hawk.

On the way out, we went through the Natural Science Museum and saw three species of Sawback turtles that are endangered and indigenous to Mississippi. So little!

Also saw baby gators, weird fish (see below), and a two-headed snake (apparently his right head controls the majority of his motor functions but the other one is generally operational).

Cathead Distillery

Within stumbling distance of Erica’s, this 10-year-old distillery sells bourbon and vodka. “Cathead” is a term of endearment in the blues community for a really good blues singer. Though they can’t host tastings, they have a cool space and fun bar. We tried to play Mario Kart but couldn’t get it to work so ended up playing Cards Against Humanity. Bought some honeysuckle vodka for the road (and future Porch Swings).

Hal & Mal’s

Originally started by brothers Hal and Mal in 1983 with 25-cent longnecks and $5 all-you-can-drink beer on Saturdays, Hal & Mal’s has been a Jackson staple ever since, going through ups and downs with the city. Willie Dixon, B.B. King, along with hundreds of others, have played here. The night we came was a young man (maybe 18?) playing excellent covers but not nearly enough Tom Petty songs. Excellent catfish po’ boys with homemade comeback sauce.

Details, details, details

Erica’s plant game is v. strong. She also gave us one! He’s currently nestled in one of our dinette cup-holders and his name is Jackson.

Saw three white-chested hawks on Hwy 12 West leaving Jackson toward Little Rock.

The fields were super flooded on our way out of town. Just a week earlier we might not have been so lucky.

And then this happened…

We had to blow through a red light somewhere in FL because were just too close to safely stop in time. Mississippi had a lot of the “Be Prepared to Stop Signs” that flash when the light is about to change. Very helpful.

On the way out of Jackson, we tried to stop for gas but the first 2 pumps didn’t work, so we went across the street. That station was too small. At the 3rd gas station, Chase started declining our card. Then they cut us off at 38 gallons. Thankfully that was enough to get us to Little Rock.

Now we know

This is probably general knowledge, but don’t order cocktails at Duling Hall during a concert. PBR tall boys FTW.

Where we stayed

At our friend Erica and Stu’s in The Standard Life building in downtown Jackson with really cool art deco details. Thank you guys for being the best! (Also tell Harris thanks and sorry for taking her space.)