February 23-28, 2020
TL;DR: We squeezed in a range of things between these two cities, from a history-making high school and the surprisingly amazing Esse purse museum to thermal hot springs and a few hikes. Felt great to stretch the legs and keep moving.
The sights
Pinnacle State Park
Though a little overcast, this pretty park had a gorgeously clear little pond right at the beginning. We took the Rocky Valley trail that winds through the woods with panoramas of Lake Maumelle and the Arkansas River just past it. Saw a ton of vultures and Pinnacle Mountain in the distance (but didn’t actually climb it). Lots of pretty rock formations and quarry-like areas.
Little Rock Central High School, Little Rock
Very informative display specifically about the Little Rock Nine, as well as the history of desegregation in America. The school building itself is stunning, and the only active school that is also a national landmark.
A stark white gas station sat just across from it and looked eerily empty.
Esse Purse Museum, Little Rock
This place! It was half-off Wednesdays, which is always nice (so $5/each). Had a small but thoughtfully-written display about purses from 10 decades (1900-1999).
Apparently it was on tour for nine years before they settled in Little Rock. There are two more in the world, in Amsterdam and Seoul, South Korea. Took about an hour but super interesting and great writing.
State House Museum, Little Rock
Lots of information on highschool-level displays. Not suuuper exciting but informative, including a First Lady exhibit with lots of cool outfits. Very creaky stairs.
Heifer Village and Urban Farm, Little Rock
Heifer’s global headquarters (“and you don’t find many headquarters in Little Rock,” said the Heifer volunteer). Judy was very sweet and gave us a mini tour.
Did a quick walkthrough of the barn and saw some cute goats and llamas.
Arkansas River Trail
Walked along the Arkansas River Trail past Clinton’s Presidential Library and a cool outdoor amphitheater right across from the Riverwalk Market, which was like a mini Ferry Building with lots of food places and a fun hot sauce place.
Hot Springs
Hot Springs is known for Bathhouse Row, which was a really interesting vision driven by the government to make the town a European-like destination for “spa days” and “healing” in the 1920s. Only two of the eight remaining bathhouses are still in operation, and the rest are now hotels, restaurants, and breweries. Before the bathhouses, there was just one yurt, apparently, and everyone camped outside. In addition to still being a bit of a spa destination, they host the “shortest” St. Paddy’s day parade (98 feet) that draws a crowd of 30,000 each year, which pretty much doubles their population (!).
Quapaw Bath House, Hot Springs
This was one of the two bath houses still in operation, and they’ve transitioned to a more modern experience. We did the group thermal pools, of which there were four: 104, 102, 98, 95. You go to separate dressing rooms to wash off before you get in, and have to wear rubber flip flops. (Jess recommends requesting lockers 20-30 if you’re going to the female locker rooms.) The 104-degree pool was super hot and almost uncomfortable, but we managed to stay in for 10 minutes, then a cold shower that took our breath away, then the 102-degree pool for 15 minutes, then we were done. We maintain that 103 is the perfect temperature for a hot tub.
Fordyce Bath House Museum, Hot Springs
This shows exactly what the old spas looked like, but isn’t actually in operation. Pretty much a horror movie, from the “treatment rooms” to “steam boxes” where only your head poked out. Even though they’re technically “clean” they all have stains, which just adds to the creepy factor.
The Grand Promenade, Hot Springs
This really pretty walkway is raised above the city and runs parallel to Bathhouse Row.
Petit Jean State Park
Stayed here two nights. Biked two miles to Mather Lodge from our spot at the campground and took the Cedar Falls Trail, which led down Cedar Creek, which was nestled between two giant cliff faces, all the way to Cedar Falls.
Took the long way back down Canyon Trail, with a quick stop at Blue Hole (watch that wobbly rock), and then to the Boy Scout Trial, which crossed the highway quite a few times and was note super well marked at the end.
Was pretty long at six miles but a good way to see the park and we had perfect hiking weather.
Magazine Mountain
Stopped here for a 5.4-mile hike through a lot of white and red oaks and hickory trees. We think it was a “bitternut” hickory, which apparently is part of the walnut family, and the nut is so bitter it’s inedible. Mostly dead landscape, lots of nuts.
We were able to see more on the hike to the top versus the actual top—aka the highest point in Arkansas—which was basically just more woods. A biiiit anticlimactic.
Details, details, details
Felt really nice to get out of the RV and stretch our legs on that first hike in Pinnacle State Park.
Everyone drives drastically under the speed limit here, and then makes very aggressive turns in front of incoming traffic.
They have lots of churches in strip malls in Little Rock. Lots of churches in general in Arkansas.
We got new bikes!! They’re shiny and new and we’re very excited to break them in.
Moxy was an especially cute little shop on Main Street in Little Rock.
Downtown Little Rock was super quiet and reminded Jess of Memphis and Bri of a small, sleepy Austin.
The visitor center in Hot Springs is right next to a thermal spring water station with about 10 spigots. It was completely packed when we left. Gotta soak up the healing powers of those thermal waters!
Did laundry for the first time just outside Hot Springs, and it was lovely and hassle-free.
Passed through a lot of farmland with cotton and cows, and many windy and narrow roads.
Hit the $4 DVD bin at Walmart and got the new Terminator and 12 Strong…
These stops made us really excited about the Ozarks, but we also realized that visiting in the spring might have been a bit early; everything is still fairly dead.
Always proud when we made a delicious dinner in the RV, porch swings included.
Rearranged everything in the bathroom and under the bed. It was glorious.
And then this happened…
We set off the smoke alarm on night two. And quite a few times after that. It’s so damn sensitive.
Bri cleaned out the water tanks before we left but the residual chlorine made it pretty much undrinkable for the first week. Thankfully it was gone by the next fill-up.
At about 9 p.m. on night three at Cracker Barrel, there was a mall cop who suddenly had his lights on behind us. But then he left and did not come back.
On our way to Petit Jean, we almost hit a deer… literally saw his legs buckle and he paused right in front of us. But he made it!
Now we know
In terms of chain stores in which to have a pleasant working experience, Panera beats Starbucks for space.
The visitor center at Magazine Mountain has $7.50 soy candles that smell amazing: Coconut Lime, Fireside, Cowboy Nights, French Laundry. Jess couldn’t fit anymore in her hands.
Camelbak knockoffs from Walmart are about as high-quality as you’d think: the water pouch started leaking the first day we used it.
Ran the batteries basically down to zero at Petit Jean State Park before realizing that our spot was right next to a power box.
Road food
Old Mill
The Old Mill Bread & Flour Co. specializes in soft-crusted “American hearth breads” including spinach feta, cinnamon swirl and cranberry pecan.
This inviting Little Rock gem sources local ingredients for vegan banh mi and chunky sweet potato fries with ‘Hickory Chip’ mayo.
Where we stayed
Night one: Cracker Barrel in Conway, AR
Nights two and three: Cracker Barrel in West Little Rock, AR
Night four: Cracker Barrel, Hot Springs, AK
Nights five and six: Petit Jean State Park, B37
When it’s dark, the signage here is really hard to read, and the map they provide online is not to scale. Really beautiful place, though, and the lake-side spots looked particularly picturesque.
Just show me the pictures already
