Sept 24-29, 2020

TL;DR: We loved Montana so much the first time around, we wanted to go back with a more focused view of living there. Overall, we’re still just not sure. Flathead Lake could be a real contender, but it would have to check a lot of boxes. Was gorgeous regardless, and we discovered quite a few new beautiful spots. 

The sights

Flathead Lake and the surrounding area

We explored 200 miles around Flathead Lake to see:

• The East shore of Swan Lake: Pretty, smaller, and quieter than Flathead. There are some bigger properties by the water, and it’s still close enough to Big Fork, Kalispell, and Whitefish to be convenient.
• Ashley Lake: We had to go 15 miles in on a pretty bumpy dirt road to get here, so it was a very slow drive but good to see the lake. Lots of properties and crazy light blue glacial waters. 
• Little Bitterroot Lake: Small, pretty, and …paved (!). Both Bitterroot and Ashley Lake are probably a little too far from town for us.
• Lakeside on the west side of Flathead looked pretty cute.

Also saw eagles and stopped in Bigfork, on the northeast side of Flathead, which was small but charming, and home to delicious pancakes (see Roadfood). Would be nice to be close to here if we wanted to live in the area.

Whitefish Lake

Feels like the Jackson, Wyoming of Montana, but slightly more casual. Closer to Glacier which is awesome, and had a good amount of restaurants and bars that could keep us busy. Might be a little overpriced/touristy.

Theirrault Lakes

These campgrounds are located in northwest Montana in the Kootenai National Forest, about 10 miles from Canada, and are very remote. Really pretty drive there, including Dickey Lake (which we’d like to come back to check out, also a cool looking brewery). 

Once we turned to head to the lakes, we had to drive Layla over 18 miles on rough gravel. Slow but beautiful with lots of pines and aspens. Took us about two hours, but made it! We were the only ones there. Had the whole campground, lake, and trail to ourselves!

Went on a short hike around the gorgeous Big Therriault Lake, which included a bald eagle sighting right over our heads.

Also saw a pretty epic sun rise slowly over the mountains.

On the way out, we saw a moose!

And also a steaming sign?

Kootenai Falls

The largest undammed waterfall in Montana, and apparently one of the largest waterfalls in the U.S. if you’re looking at flow rate. Historically, the falls are a sacred site for the Kootenai tribe. Apparently the falls also makes an appearance in Leo’s “The Revenant.”

Not a very well-marked path so we weren’t quite sure which way to go, but went both ways. Pretty, but a little anticlimactic? 

Swinging bridge was fun.

Ross Creed Cedar Grove Scenic Area

OK so we stayed at the nearby Bad Medicine Campground (not sure if that’s an awesome or unsettling name) for one night, and we were going to take the bikes “just four miles” to the Ross Creek Cedar Grove Scenic Area. The first mile and a half wasn’t too bad, but then it just started going up and up and up and not stopping. And then about two-and-a-half miles in, it started going down at an even sharper angle and didn’t stop until the bottom! Turns out it was about 650 foot elevation change, which we just weren’t mentally prepared for, but survived and are glad we went.

The Cedar Grove was spectacular, and the light was beautiful. Super pretty, lush, green, and peaceful. Lots of ferns and underbrush everywhere. Lots of fallen trees and dead white pines. Enormous towering 500-year-old Cedars, some of which were 20 feet around, and 200 feet tall, and many growing off and within each other. Amazing formations and tree canopy. 

Went back and sat down by the lake for a while. The water was so calm. Bri got to smoke a cigar.

Every few minutes we would see a UPS truck fly by across the lake. Maybe we were delirious, but after a while we found it hilarious.

Details, details, details

Went to Missoula again and are definitely comfortable taking it off our list. Just not our vibe!

Finished off/fought over the last of Mama Turpin’s brownies. A well-fought battle to be sure. I think we both won.

And then this happened

The road to Ashley Lake was all dirt. And Layla brought most of it back with us.

Road food

Crispy fried chicken for next to nothing in Missoula at Double Front Chicken. 

A huge cinnamon bun and “the best pancakes in the galaxy” in Bigfork at Pocketstone Cafe.

Where we stayed

Night one and two: Spot 25 at Wayfarer State Park at Flathead Lake

Pretty spot right in the forest. There were some campers in our spot when we got back on the second night, but all was well after Bri chatted with them.

Night three and four: Site 13, Whitefish State Park

Nice little protected area. The park was behind a lot of construction and a very conservative and religious neighborhood. 

Night five: Site 5, Big Therriault Lake

Gorgeous, isolated, and very deep in the middle of a lush forest.

Night six: Site 3 at Bad Medicine Campground

We weren’t originally going to go here but were so glad we did! Our spot was pretty dark because of the tree coverage, but we had peeks of lake view and a gorgeous picnic table right by the water.

Just show me the pictures already